The Embroidered Tales of Marwada Harijans - Pakko Embroidery

                                                                  PAKKO

Pakko embroidery is done by the Marwada community. The word pakko means solid.It is a dense variation of two sided button hole stitch which gives the embroidery a raised appearance. Mirrors are used frequently along with the bakhiya – a detailed stitch which looks like ants walking in a row.The daana stitch can appear anywhere on the design just like grains thrown on a map. The original design is drawn free hand and then transferred to the cloth by a stencil.

                                                 Aarekhani for Pakko Embroidery 

                                                                   Pakko Embroidery 

The Embroidered Tales of Marwada Harijans - Lakhmaben's treasures - The kanjhris and other belongings

                                                             Kanjhri using Kharek embroidery 

                                                            Kanjhri using  kharek embroidery 

                                                                    Kanjhri using Kharek embroidery 

                                                           Kanjhri using Pakko embroidery 

                                                                          Kanjhri using Pakko Embroidery 

                                                            Kanjhri using Mukko Embroidery 

                                                   Mukko Embroidery using silver and golden Threads

                                                          Mukko Embroidery using silver and golden Threads

                                                     Mukko Embroidery using silver and golden Threads

                                                           Mukko Embroidery using silver and golden Threads

                                                       Bag using Pakko Embroidery 

                                                     
                                          'Chutla' - Hair accessories made of Phumka and beads 

                                                            Hair Accessories made of beads 

                                      Hair accessories made using silk thread phumkas and beads 

                                       Hair clip made using beads and ghunghroo

The Embroidered Tales of Marwada Harijans - Neran Embroidery

                                                                    NERAN

Neran embroidery has recently been singled out as a separate style.It was originally a stitch used in conjunction with Kharek and pakko embroideries .The word neran means eyebrows which the curved shape formed by the units of button hole stitch used in the style are set to resemble.

                            

                                                                   Aarekhani of Neran

                                                                                Motif 1

                                                                               Motif 2 

The Embroidered tales of Marwada Harijans - KAMBIRI AND KHUDI –TEBHA EMBROIDERY

                                                     KAMBIRI AND KHUDI –TEBHA

Kambira and khudi teba embroideries are done by the harijans community living on the banni grassland track on the edge of the great rann. Kambira embroidery is a stepped running stitch style with an end result similar to some muslim architectural motifs.

Khudi Tebha is a simple running stitch which is interspersed at regular intervals with a small diamond shape which may or may not be filled. Both styles are used mainly for quilting although there are other applications.

                                                         
                                                           Aarekhani for Kambhiri 

                                                                       

                                                                         Kambhiri Motif 

The embroidered tales of Marwada Harijans - Kharek Embroidery

                                                              KHAREK EMBROIDERY 

Kharek, the name itself is reminiscent of the tactile textural quality of Dates tree and the Kharek bharat is an exultant inspiration of the form. It is a geometric style of needlework created by counting the structural make up of the fabric. The pattern is primarily executed with black outline of double running stitch and then the surface front is filled in with bar-shaped clusters of satin stitches along the warp and weft of the textile. 

                                                               Aarekhani for Kharek 

  

                            

Motif 1 

                                                                         Motif 2 

                                                                        Motif 3

                                                                             Motif 4 

'Rabaris' The Black ones- The Project

The process that was to be followed to achieve Rabari's long lost embroidary samples was as follows:

At first we were very breifly introduced to Rabari embroidary through pictures and very few panels that Shrujan had.

Then we were shown 25 samples pieces that had been done by Rabari women recently which only included basic Rabari stiches and few motifs.

We had to study the given samples carefully and figure out all the stitches and motifs(eliminating the repeats) with there names and make a dictionary.

After figuring out 40 basic Rabari stitches and 15 motifs, our next task was to study the Rabari antiques that Shrujan acquired and find new motifs and stitches from them.

These new found motifs and stitches were to be recreated by Rabari women under our guidance.

To achieve that at first arenkhani was done on white muslin by the arenkhni artist of the tribe follwed by embroidary by the ladies who were best at it.

By now, we have not found no new stitches but 51 new motifs and 16 new borders, which are fully embroidered and done on white muslin in true Rabari colors.

Through this process Shrujan has accesebilty to Rabari embroidary skills and the process, which can be used in their products for  layman to see and wear, thus retaining and supporting the tribe.

   Rabari Antique called Kedia.

Close up of the beautiful antique to be studied.

Another Rabari Antique.

Old motif done embroidered on an Antique.

Old Stitches and embroidary done on the antique piece.

Closeup of the stitches and motifs.

Women at work.

Newly found borders being worked upon.

Close up of the antique to be studied.

New borders being embroidered.

'Rabaris' The Black ones- The Lost Art

Fully adorned Rabari Child 20 years ago.

The black ones, the rabaris were not black ones from the begining. Infact, 20 years back they were the most decorated tribe. Rabaris used to adorn themselves in fully embroidered clothing, heavy jewellry and accessories. From men to women to children it was a festive decoration everyday. Embroidery was something to be proud about, something to show off and that is what made them distinctive.

After the lapse, it all changed the scenario of the tribe and there was a drastic change in the lifestyle of the Rabaris as their beautiful embroidery became a burden on them.

according to their old tradtion, heavily embrodered clothes and accercories were suppose to be given during marriages as dowry to the groom's family, and the bride could not go to the grooms house if dowry was not complete. therefore, the bride even after getting married at the age of 14-16 used to stay at her parents house and wait till the age of 35-40 for dowry to complete. this tradition led to lose of fertily amonst girls followed by falling numbers of children born.

In order to cure this problem, the Rabari community came to the conclusion of banning the embroidery and heavy jewellery altogether. Nobody now, could either wear or create any embroidered art work. Rabaris stopped adorning themselves. the beautiful being of the beautiful tribe got lost.

After 20 years of the lapse, the women have again revived the art and have started doing embroidery only for economical reasons but still they cannot wear it off and take pride in it. They are educating their children to spread awareness about the lost art. The children still don't tend to learn the embroidery techniques as it is not of their interest and as it had never been a part of their lives.  

Bonding between children living in the current scenario.

Only embroidered piece of patch put on children's clothing now.  

Rabari men adorned while his marriage function.